Train's in China are quite an experience and I certainly recommend anyone wanting to see the real China to travel around by this mode of transport. As we came to realise - each train from one location to another is generally different from the last but all in all, they are comfortable, clean and pretty fast. We planned it so every train journey we ended up on was an overnight sleeper train and we were in berths of four. Harriet and I would, for the most part, get a good night sleep but that often depended on who the other two room-mates were and more importantly - if they snored. We got our first taste of Chinese food on the train too - which actually wasn't too dissimilar to Chinese back at home although the train version isn't generally of the best quality and often would appear to us both as - meat in slop - and we weren't really sure what meat it was either.
Each bunk on the train always has it's own TV although they very rarely work, yet you are at least given your very own pair of slippers, although they often didn't fit my western sized feet. Trains in China are very popular with the Chinese rather than just tourists (we actually didn't see that many tourists on trains) and so it became a great way to meet the locals.
The train from Hong Kong to Shanghai was the longest of our entire trip. We weren't even sure it was running as a few days earlier Typhoon Morakot had torn it's way through this part of the world. In fact it mainly affected Taiwan, where it made the record books as the deadliest Typhoon to impact the country. Our train was running however, and to our delight, was about 20 hours in duration. Although mostly overnight, there were parts during the start and the end of our journey which were light enough to view rural China and the less rural, industrial China, out of the train window. After our long trip we headed through immigration, as China is sort of classified as another country from Hong Kong, although it kind of isn't (it's complicated) and we finally stepped out into China and our first stop - Shanghai.
Shanghai is the largest city in China and one of the largest metropolitan areas in the world, with a population of over 20 million people. Located on China's central eastern coast at the mouth of the Yangtze River, Shanghai is now described as the 'showpiece' of the world's fastest growing major economy.
We stepped out of Shanghai's train station, and within 3 minutes had already been completely conned. I mean this was Asia, and we were tourists, so if there's a buck to make then the locals are gonna make it - even if it isn't in the most honest manner. I'd seen all these tricks before and was used to avoiding them, but we had just come off a 20 hour train journey and we were both very tired, so we thought we would just let it slide this time. What we needed was a taxi to our hotel and we had no idea where it was located. Getting a taxi on the meter was becoming difficult and we were being harassed to take an unmetered one. They were quoting 100 Yuan (about £10), which I knew was ridiculously high. When I told the drivers that we wanted a metered cab - they said that metered taxi's would cost 120 Yuan to our hotel - yeah right!!! We eventually took an unmetered cab for 80 Yuan and let the con take place. They catch tourists coming out of the train station in the hope that it's their first time in the city and they have no idea where they are going or how much it should cost to catch a cab. We later found out that you could go pretty much anywhere, in any city in China, on a metered taxi, for no more than 15 Yuan. We reached our Hotel.
We only had two days in Shanghai so we dumped our bags in our stunning hotel and went to check out the town. We were staying close to the Huangpu River and the European styled Bund area, which lines the river and faces the Pudong (high-rise business) district on the other side of Huangpu. As you walk down to the Bund from our hotel, you get a real sense, and our first experience of China. Busy, narrow streets with thousands of people everywhere. It reminded me a bit like Vietnam compared to any other Asian country I had been to, with most people opting to choose bikes (be it motorbike, moped or push bike) as their favoured mode of transport. To cross the road (as was the case in Vietnam's Hanoi, or Saigon), you literally had to cross the road on the count of three and watch as the bikes whizzed and skidded round you. Buildings were old and those in need of restoration had bamboo scaffolding smothered around them - which I thought was an interesting choice of material to use for such a job, but which on many levels must work. However, once you reach the Bund, buildings become very grand and suddenly you are presented with every designer maker you could wish (or not wish) to see. It was an interesting contrast.
The whole of Shanghai and other parts of China are currently in construction, as the whole country is getting ready for Expo 2010. Although this grand tradition of international fairs and expositions is a global event, Expo 2010, themed "Better City - Better Life" appears to have it's central heart here in Shanghai. As such, new buildings are going up, the Bund area is getting a complete make-over, new metro lines are being put in place and a small blue character named Haibao (the Expo 2010 mascot) can be seen absolutely everywhere. If you decide to come to China next year between the 1st may and 31st October 2010 - may I strongly recommend booking early as the event is expected to generate the largest number of visitors in the history of world fair's.
We decided to head over to the other side of the river and to get there, we used some sort of weird theme park ride. Signs to get to Pudong were informing us that we needed to go underground. When your down there - I assumed we would be getting the subway across - never assume. As part of Expo 2010, they had constructed some sort of odd kid's ride which takes you across the Huangpu River in a small pod and then plays with your mind by putting on this most bizarre light show. It was very interesting if not slightly, well, mad. On the other side of the river we headed over to the business centre which has three very tall and extraordinary buildings. One is the Jin Mao Tower, a landmark skyscraper in Shanghai, the second was the newly constructed World Financial Center which looks weirdly like a bottle opener but at least has the highest observation deck in the world, and finally the Oriental Pearl Tower, which looks like nothing any human has ever seen before unless of course your standing right outside it. We opted to head up the latter. After eating off the street stalls (I loved getting back to eating Asian street food), we purchased our tickets and then endured what can only be described as the longest queue the world has ever seen. I waited less time in line for Disney Land's 'Splash Mountain' which I'm sure held some sort of record for waiting about. First there is one queue, then an elevator takes you up some of the spaceship looking tower, then you queue for the next elevator, which takes you up a bit further, before the queue's continue....well you get the idea. When we eventually did get out the queue and onto the highest observation deck (known as the Space Module) - we had a great time. You get a fabulous view of Shanghai even though it was a bit misty. The Jin Mao and Financial Center buildings were just round the corner, you could see the Bund in the distance and then beyond, out over the rest of China. They had a number of viewing decks, one which amused me but scared the pants out of Harriet, had a glass bottom, so it looked spookly as though you were floating at over 250m above the ground. The also had a rollercoaster ride in the tower, which we naturally had to experience, as well as restaurants, a cinema and all manner of other things.
We later returned back to our hotel via the underground river, theme park ride and prepared ourselves for the night ahead. We were going to a Chinese acrobatic show. Unfortunately you couldn't take photographs or video's of this incredible performance and what a shame. They must of had about 12 different scenes, each one more breath-taking than the last. At some points you almost couldn't watch for fear of some major catastrophy unfolding before your very eyes. It's odd what people will pay to see. It really doesn't matter what the actual talent is, but as long as someone can do it better than you or in some cases, if someone can do it all, then people from any part of the world will pay to see it. Take a footballer for example. Most people can play a bit of footy even if not very well, but if they are incredible at it, thousands will come to watch them and thousands is what they will get paid. Now take a man, balancing on 14 stacked chairs, most of the chairs are only balancing on their neightbour by one leg and the man, at the very top and almost interfering with the light fitting's, is balancing on the last chair using only one finger. Stuff football is all i'm saying. There were plate spinners, some guys who would do 15 back flips before jumping through a series of hoops, each no bigger than an ipod, and then the last act - well!!! They bring out a caged sphere. A guy on a motorbike comes out, starts his engine and gets in, before spinning around the cage at top speeds. Then a second motorbiked crusader comes out and gets in with him. They then both ride around this ball, criss-crossing each other and only avoiding near death by the narrowist of margins. By the time the 5th Biker gets in the cage, most of the audience has experienced at least one myocardial infarction. Five bikers all in a small caged ball, riding round at 35mph, each so close to the other that it can't possibly be achieved by pure practice but instead, can only be explained by some sort of voodoo magic. Everyone came out of the show in bewilderment and also sweating a lot.
The next day Harriet and I decided to take a boat cruise down the Huangpu River. From the river you get to see some great views of Shanghai, plus Harriet is a bit of a boat person and loves to cruise on any stretch of water. We sailed up and down the river, taking in the sights. The new Expo 2010 building is almost complete and we sailed right up to the oddly, yet architecturally beautiful construction. We also took a final stroll down the streets of Shanghai, taking in the sights, sounds and smells, and the boy pooing on the side of the road (who provided all three), before making our way back to our hotel. Our accommodation was an incredible place to stay. Our room was very traditionally designed in the old Chinese style. The amazing thing is, China is cheap and so although it appeared to any bystander that we were staying in the grandest hotel on the block, it actually wasn't very expensive. We headed off to the Train Station (cab just 12 Yuan) and left for our next destination. We were actually passing through Shanghai for one more day on our return leg so we would get to experience a bit more of this fascinating city, however that would have to wait a few days. Out of all the places in China, our next stop was the one that I was looking forward to the most. Filled with tradition, the home of Peking duck (yum), some incredibly famous buildings and one particularly famous wall - well it could only be Beijing.......
Sunday, 6 September 2009
Shanghai (China)
Friday, 4 September 2009
Hong Kong
I couldn't wait to be back in Asia. I had so many incredible experiences and memories of my times in the South Eastern parts of this section of the world, that I couldn't wait to see more. I had never been to Hong Kong but of what many had told me - it was just like most Asian cities - hot, busy and pretty much pure chaos. I was ready.
It didn't take long for me to find out that the hot part was right. We stepped out of the airport and suddenly my sweat glands went into overdrive. And as soon as we got out onto the streets I realsied that the chaos part was pretty much spot on too.
Actaually, this time round, we wern't spending too much time in Hong Kong - in fact we were only staying for one night. The plan, was to leave for China tomorrow, spend a hectic week or so traveling the mainland and then returning to Hong Kong for about 6 days to look around and rest up after our intense travels in China. So this first taste of Hong Kong was just that - a taster.
We got the MTR (their version of the underground or subway, except that it is extremely clean, unbelievably efficient and far more comfortable) and headed off to Kowloon. This time in Hong Kong we were staying on Kowloon because it was close to the Train Station and it just made our already complicated lives that little bit less complicated. On our return trip we would be staying on the main island - known simply as Hong Kong Island.
Kowloon is north of Hong kong Island and borders with mainland China. It is an urban sprawl littered with hectic lives and unbelievably busy streets. At the heart of the busy streets is Nathan Road, which just so happens to be where our hotel was located. The hotel was pretty smart. I had left all the hotel booking to Harriet, so I wasn't suprised when we walked into this grand hotel - far more plush than anywhere I had stayed in my previous days of traveling.
To say that Swine Flu is taken seriously here would be a bit of an understatement. I mean I heard it was a problem in other parts of the world but these things seem to go unnoticed somewhat in New Zealand. It's like all the major drama around the globe seems to bypass the little country way out in the South Pacific, so it was a bit of a shock to see a women disinfecting the door handle with bleach as soon as I walked through it. In fact our whole hotel was being cleaned every hour, on the hour.
Apart from that the hotel was comfortable. We had a brief look up and down the manic Nathan Road before deciding it was all too much and it would probably be better to hide in our hotel room. The next day we reached Hung Hom Train Station, went through immigration, showing off our approved visas for China and got on the train. As the minute reached our departure time, the train started up and slowly pulled away from the station. I wanted to see more of Hong Kong but that would have to wait a week. First we would be heading into mainland China. It was a 20 hour, overnight train ride, where we would arrive way out on the Eastern Coast. We were first heading to China's biggest city - Shanghai..............
Saying Goodbye To New Zealand
It was my last few days in New Zealand. I returned back to Auckland from our travels of the North Island with mixed feelings. I mean, I think I was ready to leave. I had had the most amazing time in this country and I will always love the place, but it probably was the right time to move on - wait, was it?!?
Before I left, there were many more people to see and say a fond farewell to. When I first arrived in the country I was greeted by some distant relatives (Lilian and Cliff) who I had never met previously. They live in Auckland and had looked after me for my first few days, but since then, I hadn't been back to see them. The parents and I arranged to meet them for a meal. It was great to see them again, chat about what I had been doing in NZ for the last year and thank them for their hospitality. It was nice for my parents to meet them for the first time too.
I had been in NZ for exactly a year and my work visa was now running out. Thats perhaps the main reason I would have to leave. All the jobs in volcanology in NZ are government owned organisations and they have to play it by the book. They can't just keep me on and pay me cash in hand under the table, and as a result my time was up. My very good friend, Darren, who flew out to NZ to travel around with me, but who ended up staying a year and working, was also having to leave the country for similar reasons. Darren had been living down in Queenstown with his girlfriend Jaqui and they both headed up to Auckland to prepare for their departure, which was a few days after my own. My parents were flying out the very next day, so Darren and Jaqui, Harriet and I, the parents and Darren's cousin (who was originally from England, but who had moved to live in Australia 10 years ago and who had taken a quick flight over to NZ to see Darren before he left) all went out for a meal. It was the most delicious food, in this small restaurant down some hidden back alley in Parnell. We all chatted about our last year in NZ and how we were all gutted to be leaving. I don't think the reality had quite hit me at that point. We went out for a few drinks after, where we saw some old friends in a pub and who we knew we would probably never see again.
The parents flew on and the very next day, Harriet and myself would also be leaving. Due to a bit of coincidence and some intense arranging, Harriet and I were leaving on the same plane home. So here's the quick version of the story. Harriet had a flight back to the UK, for some time at the very end of August because she started her last year of University, and I needed to get back to the UK for my sisters wedding on the 29th August. So a while ago we went into STA to see if we could get on the same flight. However, due to the ticket that Harriet had and the incredible popularity of flights out of NZ at that time of the year - the only seats available to Harriet was to fly from New Zealand to Hong Kong on the 10th August and then 15 days later, to fly out of Hong Kong back to London on the 25th. I wanted to stop in Hong Kong for a few days but this was a bit extreme. We decided to go for it anyway and later re-decided that rather than go to Hong Kong for two weeks, we would do just over a week traveling China too. And so the planning began. It's pretty easy to get a visa for most countries, especially if you're just a tourist.....not for China though! To get a chinese visa, you either need to know someone in the country who can 'invite' you in (that was a no go for us), or you have to show immigration in advance, your whole travel itinerary with confirmation of all hotel bookings and transport in and out of the country. And so the planning continued. For the past two months we had been booking all sorts of accommodation and transport around China, just so we could get our visa. We planned to travel from place to place in China (and in & out of the country) via the train, and boy was that a drama trying to book. Anyway, after much faffing about, we got all the documents, applied for our visa and with suprising ease got them approved.
We were on our way - or so we thought. Just as I'm heading off on my trip with my parents around the North Island, Harriet gets an email saying that she has been dropped off the system and that she is not on any flight from Hong kong to London. STA had apparently messed up big time and were struggling to sort a solution as the flight she was supposed to be on was now fully booked. Well Iv'e seen volcanoes erupt at pretty close proximity and they are scary enough - but watching Harriet - let's just say she is the Yellowstone of the erupting world. After a lot of messing about, some angry emails and a fair bit of shouting, we both got moved to earlier flights on the same day out of Hong Kong. It all worked out in the end (just), but before we left we had one final meal to attend.
Harriet's Aunt and Uncle (Patricia and Steve) had been really good to Harriet and I over the last year. The let us stay on their farm, took us out to places and we often did a trip here and there with them. Their best friend, Leith was similarly generous to us, and so we thought we would cook them all a final meal to say thank you. Harriet and I went over to Pat and Steve's farm house, where we cooked a great roast dinner. It was the full works and incredibly the kitchen didn't burn to the ground during or after the excercise. We also bought them a few gifts and a lot of alcohol to show our appreciation. It was a nice way to say farewell and I think everyone enjoyed themselves.
The next day was D-Day (Departure Day). We sorted out our flat with the land-lady, packed our bags, said our final goodbyes and with incredible haste - left New Zealand. There was so many things to sort out and so many people to say goodbye to that I didn't really take in the fact that I was leaving. It was great living in the flat but we were out of it so quickly that morning that I didn't even check it over to make sure that I had taken everything out of it. Nonetheless - it was another fun chapter of my traveling over and I will always remember it as a beautiful country with some fantastic memories. I have no doubt that I will return to New Zealand one day - and probably sooner than I think.
We Said our final goodbyes to Pat and Steve and got on the plane. Our flight was long but it felt even longer. We were entertained by movies throughout but as soon as I got into my seat I quickly wanted to get out of it. I think it was the whole situation that was flying past me so quickly that was making me anxious. It didn't help that a weird man kept staring at Harriet for pretty much the entire 12 hours too, so it was a relief when we finally landed in Hong Kong.
As I had left New Zealand without really taking in the situation, I equally hadn't really thought about heading into Hong Kong and China. The realisation that I was back in Asia suddenly hit me. The anxiousness passed. I absolutely love Asia and now I had arrived back, right into the thick of it again...........
Heading Back To Auckland Via Hobbiton
Rotorua was our last major stop. We were on our way back to Auckland, for in a few days my parents were flying on to Singapore and then home, and for me - well I was also flying on!!! Between Rotorua and Auckland however, was a little town called Matamata. If you came here 10 years ago you would find a lot of farm land, a small town but not what you would consider a major tourist destination. Skip on a decade and the farm land and small town are still here, yet now - tourists flock to this part of the country and the reason is Lord of the Rings. The filmakers used a small farm near the town of Matamata as a set for Hobbiton. And being tourists, we thought we would check it out.
As you drive through Matamata you realise that everything is Lord of the Rings related. They even have signs as you drive in to the town centre which read - "Welcome to Hobbiton". Around the town and in quite a few places in this part of the North Island, the farmland is just like the Shire, with perfectly rounded and smooth rolling hills which trace off into the distance.
So that's Matamata for you. Oddly, the world's only other Matamata, which is located in Tunisia – was a site used during filming of George Lucas's Star Wars trilogy. You really do learn something everyday - most of the something's are completely useless - but they are still something's nonetheless!!!
We continued on our way, and in a few hours, we were back in Auckland.................
Thursday, 3 September 2009
Rotorua
It was quite odd being back in Rotorua. For while I have returned to other parts of New Zealand on more than one occasion, I hadn't really been back to Rotorua since my very first month in the country. Darren and I had spent a few days here - taking in the sulphur that emanates from below, and strolling around another of NZ's great lakes.
The parents and I first went to the Geothermal Village. There are many around the town - most of which are located just south of Rotorua. The walking tour around the park saw us pass geothermal pools, geysers, bubbling mud and lakes that were so green and yellow - that they almost looked as though I had just taken a bath in them!!! The geothermal park's are interesting, even if you don't have a desire to be a volcanologist. As we walked round, the smell of rotten eggs wafted over us, clinging to our hair and our clothes. It was a pleasant way to spend a morning.
After all that walking and with geothermal activity surrounding us - we thought what better way to relax than a soak in the geothermal pools. Each pool is a different temperature - from about a warm 36 degrees Celcius to a scoulding 42 degrees. At the Polynesian Spa you also get a great view over parts of Lake Rotorua.
We later took a walk around by the lake and went to a quietly hidden Maori Village which Darren and I had stumbled across almost a year earlier. It's quite interesting to see some of the Maori culture especially if you haven't seen anything like it before. We had another great meal out on the town, later that night, before preparing ourselves for the next days travels. We were heading back to Auckland but on the way we thought we would stop off at place known to many as Hobbiton, to the Kiwi's however, it's called Matamata...........
Taupo & The Tongariro National Park For The Very Last Time
We were up early and back in the car for our next road trip. We were heading west towards the North Islands very central core. I had been to this place many a time, in fact I had been here just a week or so ago but my parents wanted a tour and no tour of New Zealand would be complete without stopping off here in my opinion. So off went to The Tongariro National Park and my old home - Taupo.
We first headed straight to Taupo so we could check in and dump the bags. I didn't need to point out the lake - it's pretty large and exceptionally obvious as soon as you get anywhere near the area. Our hotel was right on the lake-front and I wasn't complaining - I don't think I had stayed anywhere so good in all my year and a half of traveling. We then took the scenic drive down to the National Park. My Dad, like myself, is a bit of a Lord of the Rings fan and I wouldn't let him miss out on seeing Mordor and Mount Doom. We first parked up by the start of the Tongariro Crossing before the three of us decided to take a brief stroll along the first part of the track. From the track you could see the volcanoes of Tongariro, Nguaruhoe and Ruapehu. Now and again I would show them bits of old volcanic rock and often store them in everyones pockets for safe keeping. It was a bit cloudy at first so our views were some what blocked but they soon passed.
We then went into the Whakapapa Village, right in the heart of the National Park, were we did what any English person would do - we had a nice cup of tea and a scone. We also went around a small museum which provides information on the volcanoes and the area in general.
We later returned to Taupo for dinner. Beforehand however, we stopped off at my old hostel - Go Global. I had not stayed here for a while so I decided to see what the place was like. It hadn't changed very much, if at all - but there was no-one working who I knew. I really should have pre-warned people of my arrival and I will no doubt regret not doing that - in fact I already regret it. I must have made an impression on the place though, because just as you walk into the hostel, are a series of printed pictures up on the wall. Most of them were of the era when I was there and many of the photos had me in them (looking pretty ridiculous in one way or another). It made me smile.
The next day, we headed north. I took my parents to the impressive Huka Falls as well as the outrageously long journey that I used to walk to work. We stopped at GNS and I said a farewell to my old boss Gill. We continued north. It was just one more hour to our next location. I'm sure I could smell the place about 30 minutes before we arrived. There's not many places that smell as bad as Rotorua.............
Napier
My parents had left Auckland to continue their holiday in the more southerly parts of New Zealand, while I had 101 jobs to sort out as I prepared to leave the country in a few weeks. The jobs were boring, the goodbyes were emotional, the parties were hectic and the following week I caught an early morning flight to Wellington. The parents had been travelling the South Island of NZ but had now made it across the pond to the southern tip of the North Island and the countries capital. I had spent a fair amount of time in this windy city but had decided to fly down to Wellington to meet them there because it was cheaper to fly down (just NZ$40 - thats about £24) than get a bus, and I wouldn't have to endure a journey that would make a sane man weep. So I got to Wellington, met up with the parents and we all jumped in a car and headed off on a 4 hour scenic drive. We were going to the eastern part of the North Island, a part of the country which I had not yet seen. Our destination was Napier.
Napier is a port city at the southern end of Hawkes Bay. The city itself is like stepping back to the 1930's with almost every building providing the very recognisable 'art deco' style. The reason for such aesthetics, stems from the fact that in 1931 Napier suffered to the hands of nature when a 7.8M eathquake devastated the town and killed 256 people. The earthquake was the second largest quake ever recorded in New Zealand. Oddly enough just a few weeks ago another 7.8M earthquake struck the Fjordland region of New Zealand's South Island, of which my friend Darren (living in Queenstown and close by to Fjordland - ish) was shaken around the cinema where he was working as he tried to sell Transformers tickets to customers. Although it now falls as joint second largest earthquake ever recorded in NZ along with the Napier disaster, this newly struck earthquake didn't kill a single person.
After the 1931 quake, Napier was rebuilt, almost from scratch, and in fashion at the time, was art deco. As we walked around the town, my parents said it reminded them of Santa Barbara in North America. Napier is a pretty town although would it probably be a bit more lively if it was summer time. It definately appeared to be a summer town tourist spot.
Napier and more specifically - Hawkes Bay, is also gaining a name for itself as one of the world's great wine regions. It's now becoming difficult to travel around New Zealand without stumbling across one of the great wordly wineries, and this place (according to the experts), is one of them. It would certainly suit my father quite nicely. Since I last saw him (a year and a half ago), he has now become what appears to a novice such as myself - to be quite a wine expert - or at least he's certainly an expert at consuming the wine. After a stroll around town and along the sea-front parade where you get a great view of the impressive Hawkes Bay, the Pacific Ocean and for us, a dead fish washed up on the beach, we headed off to taste some of these so called - great wines. My Mum and Dad had just been traveling the Marlborough region and tasted some great alcoholic grapes and you would think that such a tasting could be repeated here. Unfortunately it appeared impossible to find anywhere in Napier that would sell wines from Hawkes Bay. The logic appeared odd to me. I can walk down Southgate high street, in North London, walk into Asda and choose from about 18 different kinds of Hawkes Bay wine, yet here I am, so close to the region that I'm basically swimming in the bay and yet I can't find a single place to wet my palette. I've given up questioning things like this and have just learnt to accept that the world is completely insane and most definately illogical.
We drank our 'house red', went for a nice meal and then called it a night. It was a big day tomorrow. We were heading to a new location. One that was very familiar to me - it was Taupo.......
