From Thailand To Laos

Down the Mekong

So, after just under a month - I leave Central and Northern Thailand and head for Laos. The two day trip was booked for both myself and my travelling friend Harjeet (from Slough) who I had met a few weeks earlier. Unfortunately Harj had been feeling ill for quite some time and so decided to get it checked out. The day before we leave for Laos he visits the local Pai hospital - where they confirm that he has contracted Typhoid!!! I head off to Laos alone. I'm not sure whether I will now ever see Harj again. Things can change so quickly out here, you can't plan from one day to the next - I suppose thats the life of a traveller.

The bus from Pai leaves at 10pm and your seated (in a space the size of a penalty spot) for pretty much the whole night. The trip sends you through a region known as the "Golden Triangle" because simply, it is the border between Thailand, Myanmar (Burma) and Laos. Myself, three young English-ers from Muswell Hill and a guy called Cody from Canada arrive at the Thai border (a small town called Chiang Khong) at 4am and then wait - for the border to open. Getting out of Thailand is quick and easy - getting into Laos is less so. You take a short boat ride across the Mekong River into (Huay Xai) Laos - where you procede to wait for an hour and a half - filling in papers, getting your passport stamped and most importantly - paying large quantities of US dollars for the privilege. Eventually we get going.

About 50 people can board each slowboat. Beforehand they advise you to buy a small pink pillow with bears printed on it - it's currently the best 50p i'v spent. The first day takes six hours down the Mekong and the wooden planks of wood that represent seats are not the most comfortable. There is not a great deal to do on the boat except look at the incredible scenery and make many friends. After the days sailing we arrive at a small town on the Mekong called Pak Beng. As we dock - kids (in huge quantities) jump aboard, grab as many bags as their arms will hold and then sprint off up the hill with everyones belongings. The boat seems to take just a bit longer to dock than you would expect - likely to allow the kids to complete their mission. Once off the boat - I see an old man with my ridiculously heavy backpack sprinting up the hill - I chase after him. Catching up - he then wants money for carrying my bag up the hill - I pay him 50 baht!!!

Pak Beng is an extroadinary town - one road, with no electricity after 10.30. Cody and I spent that night with three young ladies from England and two from Sweden - playing cards and drinking unquestionably the best beer in SE Asia (Beer Lao) - all under torch light.

The next day we begin an 8 hour trip down the Mekong. The trip followed a similar pattern to the first day - mainly drinking and talking, except now a strong smell of illegal substances drifted across the boat - most of which had been picked up by backpackers in Pak Beng the night before.

Finally, we arrive at our destination..... Luang Prabang.