Bromo-Tengger-Semeru

On The Edge Of The Crater

I actually underestimated how bad the transportation is in Java. I thought that I could reach the town of Cemero Lawang from Yogyakarta in one day - and technically I could if I hadn't got up so late. Once you miss the early bus - thats it - youv'e had it. So I took the bus to Probolinggo and was forced to endure one night in this smallish town which offers nothing to me. The next day I catch the early bus and finally reach my destination - the small town of Cemero Lawang and the incredible sight of Bromo-Tengger-Semeru volcanic landscape.

Gunung Bromo is an active volcano lying at the centre of the Tengger Massif. It is not the tallest volcano in the region (standing at just 2329m) but it is the most well known in this volcanic complex, continually belching out massive amounts of smoke and gas. It sits within a larger crater, a 16km wide caldera (Tengger), which forms steep slopes at the crater's edge, plunging down into a flat, vast sea of lava sand and ash.

The massive Tengger volcanic complex dates back to the early Pleistocene and consists of five overlapping stratovolcanoes, each truncated by a caldera. Lava domes, pyroclastic cones, and a maar occupy the flanks of the massif.

Often the whole area is reffered to as Mt. Bromo but actually Bromo is only one of three mountains within the Tengger caldera. Bromo is flanked by the perfect cone of Batok Volcano (2440m) and the larger Kursi Volcano (2581m). Just further south of the Tengger Caldera, the whole region is overseen by Gunung Semeru - the largest volcano in Java (3676m) and the most active in these highlands. As such, the whole region is more accurately described as Bromo-Tengger-Semeru, a stunning volcanic landscape with a strange end-of-the-world feel to it.

On my first day - well I couldn't wait - I headed out to Bromo. It's the spiritual centre of the region. According to a local folk tale, at the end of the 15th century princess Roro Anteng from the Majapahit Empire started a separate principality together with her husband Joko Seger. They named it Tengger by the last syllables of their names. The principality did prosper, but the ruling couple failed to conceive children. In their despair they climbed Mount Bromo to pray to the gods, who granted them help, but requested the last child to be sacrificed to the gods. They had 24 children, and when the 25th and last child Kesuma was born Roro Anteng refused to do the sacrifice as promised. The gods then threatened with fire and brimstone, until she finally did the sacrifice. After the child was thrown into the crater, the voice of the child ordered the local people to perform an annual ceremony on the volcano, which is not held today. Other offerings are still made to Bromo and there is a Hindu Temple at the base of the volcano which has a ghostly look to it, especially when the mist sets in.

The town of Cemoro Lawang is small, quiet and peacful and from the town provides incredible scenery, seen from all angles. It sits right on the edge of the crater (I could see the volcanoes from my bedroom window - priceless). It's about an hour walk down the ridge and across the huge lava plain (the Tengger crater's floor) before a gentlish climb up Bromo where you can peak into it's smoking crater. I took the trip with a Russian guy I had met on my way here - Valery, who was a very interesting fellow. He is a Russian travel-writer and does TV and radio work too. Aparently he is a bit of a celebrity in Russia (you would recognise him if you passed him on the streets out there) so I felt quite honoured - plus he has some incredible stories from his travels. My favourite was that when he was young he left Russia and Hitch-hiked round the world for three years - starting with just US$ 300. He returned with US$20!!!

Bromo is immense. We walked right around the crater's rim, watching the smoking crater while suffocating from it's smelly fumes. You get a great view over the Tengger Crater too, which is also an eye-opener. Activity here is continuous, the central vent spuing out smoke high into the atmosphere.

The next morning we climbed to the top of Gunung Penanjakan (2770m) where you can look out over the whole volcanic landscape (Tengger Massif). Of course the best time to see it is at sunrise - so it was another early start. We were up at 2.30 am, clambering up forset growth with just a torch and a bottle of water. There is meant to be some sort of path to the top but who knows - we just followed our instinct. There are a couple of viewpoints along the way but we were determined to make it to the top for the best view of all. We made it in time and well - the view up there is unsurpassed. You can see over the whole region. Bromo chuging away at the front with Batok next to it. Behind Kursi and further south in the distance is Semeru which puffs out smoke intermittently, every 10 minutes or so. On the other side you can look out over Cemoro Lawang and the incredible valley which fills with cloud as the sun peaks over the horizon colouring the sky. The whole thing is blindingly beautiful and I spent a good while taking it all in. On the return leg (now light), you can stop at the other, lower viewpoints before making your way to town.

The next morning I did the whole thing again. But not to the top of Penanjakan, but instead to Bromo itself. Valery had gone so I made the trek on my own, in the pitch dark, across the lava plain and up Bromo (I had already been there so I knew the way, although it was difficult in the dark - It's a big crater you know!!!). Quite some way away from Bromo I could already smell sulphur and by the time I got to the base of the volcano - the smoke filled the air around me. Winds were blowing it in my direction. I waited to climb up. Even at the base the smoke makes your eyes and nose itch, your throat becomes sore and you start coughing your lungs out. You have to cover your mouth (as best you can) at times - I was literally being poisoned. There were some Indonesian guy's there to who ridiculously started climbing up to the top. I couldn't see them as they trudged up through the fog but I could hear them coughing and choking - they sounded like they were going to be sick. I waited till the winds changed (which they did) before heading up to the crater.

Sunrise from here was even better because your facing more easterly. The sun lights the air and the whole place has a moonscape, ghostly feel to it. I'v never seen anything like it before. The volcanoes illuminate among the smoke and on this day, the clouds spread into the Tengger crater creating a carpet of white below us. Incredible.

Unfortunately, I had to leave Bromo to catch a flight, otherwise I probably would have been up the next morning for sunrise. As the journey continues, my time in Asia is now running out - but first, there's still a few places yet to explore.......