Gunung Merapi (Java)

Gunung Merapi (Java)

Gunung Merapi in Central Java, is today considered one of, if not the most active volcano on Earth. It is a conical Volcano, erupting regularly since 1548. Merapi has been in the top 15, list of the world's most active volcanoes for quite some time (making it a Decade Volcano) and has been placed in the number 1 spot for the last nine years by the International Association of Volcanology and Chemistry of the Earth's Interior.

Merapi is the youngest of a group of volcanoes in Southern Java. It is situated at a subduction zone, where the Indo-Australian plate is sliding beneath the Eurasian Plate. It is the most active of 129 lively volcanoes in Indonesia, forming part of the Pacific Ring of Fire.

Smoke can be seen emerging from the crater roughly 300 days a year but several recent eruptions have caused fatalities. In 1994, an eruption sent pyroclastic flows down it's flanks, causing 69 fatalities. Eruptions in 1997, 2001 and 2006 have also caused some deaths. The main hazards are pyroclastics and lahars (volcanic mudflows), probably the two most deadly and devastating volcanic hazards.

The volcano lies just 30km from the large town of Yogyakarta and there are dozens of small towns around it's flanks. As such, there are now five observation posts around the mountain and there are extensive warning systems and evacuation procedures put into place.

I stayed in the small and quiet, cool mountain town of Kaliurang, which sits on the slope of Merapi. Life here is slow bordering on stationary. It has a monitoring station in the town and I went straight there to find out what was going on. The volcanologists there were pleased to talk to me, showing me the seismomgram they use to monitor the volcanoes current state and the seismographs of previous eruptions. They explained their work, how all the stations collabarate their findings, and they showed me pictures of other volcanoes in Java as well as Merapi's past eruptions, and volcano victim's bodies (terrible). Beacuse the volcano erupts so regularly (a big one every 5-6 years and smaller ones every 2 years), they have a warning system if signs suggest trouble. For me all the work they were doing was highly interesting. I also went up to their look-out tower but it was too cloudy that day.

From Kaliurang, you can't climb to the top of Merapi - it's too dangerous. But you can climb to a good view-point about 1km from the peak at 1900m asl. of course you have to see it at sunrise so I was up at 3:00 am. It was me, my guide and a guy from England called Matt. It's an easy stroll to the view-point where we did get some great views of the smoking Merapi before it became covered in cloud.

We also passed some old lava flows from 1994 and 1997, material still clearly visible. Our guide explaining how pyroclastics swept down the area on which we were standing, sailed down two valleys and then re-met where together they surged over into a small town, killing many. People were killed - like those of Pompei - bodies appearing frozen in position.

The government offered to move those who live on it's flanks but no-one left, partly because the slopes have fertile soils, but mainly because it is their home. Merapi is seen as a spiritual place. The towns people climb Merapi and provide gifts to it once a year. This is done by all religions here (they all come together to do it). The people here believe that there is a king who guards over Merapi, protecting the them. As the volcano grows in size (from volcanic activity) the King is believed to be rebuilding his kingdom. When it erupts, the King is angry. Relatives and family members who have been killed by Merapi's destruction are not said to have died but have instead followed the King up to Merapi to stay forever. While volcanoes are more likely seen as a fiery menace that would probably be suited to hell, here Merapi is seen more as an afterlife - heaven. Looking up at it, it is certainly tall enough to reach the lofty peaks, high above the clouds. For these reasons alone - no-body is going anywhere. Unfortuntaely though - I was - but not far - just 30km south - to Yogyakarta......